Splitter crack climbing beta is usually not so much about which hand goes in which jam, but rather a general rhythm of which body motions to use for different sections and when to punch it. I took my second lap on the line that day on top rope to try to find this flow without worrying about gear. We also learned a logistical lesson that first day as the crack is in full sun by 11am, feeling like a frying pan with such dark rock!
For day two we skipped the roadside 5.11 warmup and opted for the extra shade time on Concepcion itself. With a rack including 3x #2s, 3x #3s, and a #4 cam, I blasted through the tips boulder and found my flow through the off finger jams. Soon I was into the hand jamming finale and sent the pitch as my warm up for the day, only my third go on the crack! Lor also sent the line just after me, a perfect team send of the mythical splitter.
I hate to degrade old climbing myths, but I am a pretty objective person.. Concepcion is a very difficult splitter, but only clocks in around mid 5.13. One can very reasonably carry enough cams to protect all sections. The tips boulder does involve a crank, but most people stand on a small stone to reach the first pin scar, bringing the tips section down to V5 or so. It seemed like taller climbers may be able to just reach the lock. Jumping to a one hand lock seemed absurd, and not especially pure considering the lock is manufactured in the first place! Concepcion taught me a lesson in always having a look for oneself, rather than writing off a lofty aspiration based solely on the stories surrounding it.