[As of April 8th - Monster gets sun around 10am, boulder at 11am, Enduro at noonish, start at midnight]
Commit to climbing with small bullet pack of food/descent shoes and 2L on each climbers, ~2000 calories of dense food. PAS each for rope switches. See topo for locations of Traxions! Pitch numbers are based on topo below, but don't fully match how we will climb it.
P1-9: Simul freeblast with 4x traxions and 40m resupply cord, back cleaning draws where possible. Leader should clip tag through directional at anchor before 11b slab. Resupply gear once when leader is atop 11b pitch. All simuling is protected besides the 5.7 ramble to Mammoth. Continue across to the Mammoth down climb, leader leaves TR locker at last anchor then heads down while simuling. Follower stops at top of down climb to finish with regular belay, then threads rope and gets mega TR. Leader uses tag to extend their tail for TR to reach. Regroup at heart ledges.
P10-11: Simul to Hollow Flake pitch with traxions, optional tag of kit at heart "move" pitch. Leader should tie tail of tag to anchor before simuling down HF for hauling kit! Leader simuls down HF. Follower should "fish" for down climbing leader to avoid extra slack pooling up. Follower catches up, but stops at anchor to belay leader back up HF, then leader hauls kit on tag (lower out with lead rope tail). Leader then gives follower regular belay, follower uses leaver biner directional on down climb bolt, then climbs down, around, and up with slight penji risk. Leader drops other tail of leadline to follower once it can reach, follower switches ropes, and leader pulls free lines through leaver biner on previous anchor. Leader belays follower up the rest of the OW to regroup at the nice ledge.
P12-14: Simul up through ear in single pitch, no resupplies. save singles #1-4 and #6 for ear. Leader clips tag through anchor before ear! Leader fixes line for follower, follower dumps kit on tag so leader can haul while they TR solo follow ear. Regroup atop ear
P15: Regular lead belay for monster. Setup kit on Fifi release to remove down climb weight. Leader stops at standard belay on ramp for clean haul on face. Leader soft fixes on GriGri with ~20ft slack and follower sets up TR solo. Leader belays downclimb, then puts stopper knot behind GriGir as follower switches to TR solo for rest of OW. Haul kit on tail of lead line.
P16-19: Leader leads short OW to start simul block while back cleaning big cams. Simul long wide pitch off alcove dropping traxion at ~40m at good stance on right. Continue into 5.10 corner, and possibly 5.11 right var pitch to boulder if feeling comfy and have gear (ledge risk, yell down for minimal slack). Fix line for follower when at belay for boulder problem. Regroup here.
P20: Regular belay both lead and follow for boulder. Take turn leading until one person sends, then follower continues until sending on TR to rejoin atop pitch. Leader hauls kit on tag
P21-22: Preload traxion for midpitch deployment, simul sewer leaving traxion below block roof (not on lip bolt, FF1 risk!). Follower tries to catch up to reduce drag for top have of sewer. Continue simuling into flakes pitch, but follower stops at block and waits to fix and follow (no great midpitch cams for a Traxion). Follower can dump kit on fixed line tail
P23-24: Regular belay for leader and follower for both Enduro pitches and traverse. Leader hauls kit on tag while follower fix and follows. For traverse, tie tag to top of enduro corner anchor and haul kit on that line! Discuss communication if not able to hear each other. Follower gets regular belay for traverse.
P25: Regular lead belay for hand crack off round table, fix and follow while leader hauls kit on tag
P26: Regular lead belay for Burke, fix and follow, haul kit on tail of lead line (tag won't reach). Discuss communication if not able to hear each other!
P27-29: Simul to summit! Leave traxion on a cam in slab crack atop thin hands 5.10 prior to weird alcove. Long draws for pins through the alcove boulder problem (ledge risk here, may make sense to stop and pitch out). Leader fixes line at summit.