Ring that Bell 5.13R

November 2019

The granite of the Wasatch range in Utah is a once-abstracted version of the greater walls of Yosemite - the cracks flare further, lean harder, and the foot holds are not only slippery, but also tend to flake away under pressure. Depending on perspective, this either makes these canyons a horribly stressful and insecure venue to push your limits, or the ultimate backyard trainer for big wall goals.

I personally have sided with the later and heavily biased my Salt Lake climbing towards Little Cottonwood. When beginning work as a BD engineer, I was new in town and my lineup of fresh routes to try to onsight seemed never ending. A few years into the ritual of after work outings, I exhausted this genre. My focus then turned to projecting the challenging routes on local granite, and adding a few my own. I wrote out a list of all the hardest test pieces and began putting in the work to gain skills needed to tick them off.

While technically one canyon over from Little Cottonwood, Ring that Bell shares the same stone and was a shadowy figure on my list. The first ascentionist’s notorious Mountain Project writeup gave descriptions of dynamic movement, insecure climbing, and even a topo of microcam-with-screamer placements to manage the objective danger. I knew this route was unrepeated. I skipped right over it and ticked off higher graded but safer routes before even seriously considering the line - I am generally not motivated by danger in climbing. Finally, in November of 2019, I felt tuned up on the stone enough to give an attempt in a ground up style.

Ring that Bell remains a proud line that barely protects with traditional gear. I may not have discouraged Brad’s initial proding about adding bolts, but I am pleased that it is frozen in its original state. The danger level plays out as a near perfect inverse to physical difficulty throughout the pitch, creating a highly memorable rock climb. I cherish the local granite crags as practice climbing, frequently repeating routes to perfection, being satisfied once I can complete the maneuvers on a whim any given day. Ring that Bell, however, will reside firmly in a different category of one-and-done.