Sedona's Free Mini Walls
Tony Schwartz following up the Dickel's crux pitch. Warning, it is steeper and longer than it appears in this sidewalk photo!
Late fall I then did a 5.13d multipitch route called Cousin of Death in Insomnia Canyon, an Oak Creek Canyon offshoot between Sedona and Flagstaff. This canyon has the unique aspect of being a top-down approached 600 foot wall. Many of the locals have a full spool of static line designated for working/establishing lines here. I acquired my Insomnia spool while healing up an injured pulley, first investigating the "Cousin" in October.
Looking up the Cousin of Death
This route took a few more days of work than Dickels, with rushed tactics as winter approached - the season for Insomnia Canyon ends with the first major snow - the forest access road close through late spring. Since fixing the route with static rope is helpful to bail out of the canyon on a failed redpoint attempt anyways, I first rehearsed for two days TR soloing the fixed line. I made careful gear and sequence notes on my phone between efforts. That week I gave a redpoint attempt fully supported by my friend Dan, but I found it was a bit premature, failing at the 13d pitch due to misremembering the complex seam holds.
Dan James was bailed on for a El Cap Shield ascent, but at least he got some local wall time in while supporting me on the Cousin
I thought that was the last weather window of the season, but a few barely-warm-enough days appeared in late November. I did one additional solo rehearsal day to refresh. I was then supported by Amity for a wonderful (but numb) redpoint day of the whole route with no falls!
The 13b undercling traverse on incredibly slick smears
Amity Warme top ropes the 13d seam pitch in support on my redpoint
A blank canvas awaits - is it 5.13, 5.14, or impossible? On a corner like this, the hold size comes down to millimeters.